RETURN TO THE MOTHER LAND

Sep 16

My study abroad experience in Galway, Ireland

My middle name is Sisk, making my full name Catharine Sisk Yoder. It sounds so European and silly. I was always told that my silly-sounding last name, Yoder, was Swiss-German and that it’s a more common last name up in the northern states. But people will always look at me funny when I tell them my middle name is Sisk. I’ve learned to really love my name since I’m very blessed to share it with my beautiful Nana, Catharine Sisk. According to my grandad (an Irish native), “Sisk” originates from East Cork. The name “Sisk” is a more modern version of the Gaelic surname “Saghas” of County Kildare.

I was able to embrace my full Irish nature this past summer when I was given the amazing opportunity to study abroad in Galway, Ireland, through the UNC-Chapel Hill Arts Criticism program. It was a month-long program that involved taking an art criticism course at the University of Galway, where we would learn about the world of visual arts and build essential criticism skills by dissecting visual performances, fine art, music, etc. At the same time, we would also be interning and attending events at the Galway International Arts Festival (GIAF).

Since this was my first time traveling outside of America by myself, I had no idea what to expect. I always travelled with my family and had a whole itinerary of activities planned out. But this was different. I was going to be by myself in a group with eight other people I didn’t know. I was also going to be working throughout the program, but I still had an open mind.

The first day was rough with delayed flights, jetlag, and no sleep for 22 hours. I was very fortunate to be on the flight from JFK to Shannon, Ireland with two girls in my program, Shelby and Kat. We quickly became acquainted and boarded the plane that would take us to our new home for the next month. When we arrived and got our baggage, my large luggage handle broke. Fantastic. We hopped on a bus to Galway and spent the next hour looking out the bus window at the passing fields of green. My eyes were glued to that window, in awe of Ireland’s beauty.

We arrived in Galway and discovered that James, another group member and the only boy on the trip (bless his heart) was on our bus. The four of us arrived at the University of Galway campus and met up with the rest of the crew and our professor for a program debrief. Afterward, we treated ourselves to a grocery run and our first of many family dinners. We ate dinner at our first real Irish pub, Busker Brownes. I tried a Guinness with fish and chips, and I had never felt more proud to be Irish.

We began with icebreakers to help everyone get to know each other. We asked questions like: 'What's the best concert you've ever been to?' 'What's life like at UNC?' and 'What's your favorite album?' One of the fun topics was whether anyone had Irish heritage. A few of us knew we had Irish roots and shared the meanings behind our names. Several group members, including myself, mentioned that one reason we applied for the program was to visit Ireland and explore the places connected to our family names.

We then came up with a list of places we wanted to visit during our program: Cliffs of Moher, Dublin, Cork, Dingle, Kilkenny, Derry, County Kildare, London, Salthill, the list went on. We left the pub feeling happy and full then went to an ATM to grab euros for our bus ride back to campus. But just as things were getting good, the ATM ate my card. As I looked at everyone in silent shock, we all broke out into fits of laughter. I think that was the moment we all became close friends.

As soon as the program’s class began, I was thrust into a whirlwind of activity that was both exhilarating and enriching. We read articles about the work of visual artists, poets, musicians, and theater performances, giving us an idea of what a professional review or criticism of art looked like. We had our class in the mornings from 9 am to 10 am, our festival shifts in the middle of the day or in the evenings, then we had free time on the weekends to explore the surrounding cities and sites. Some of my favorite day trips involved exploring King John’s castle in Limerick, jumping off the Salthill pier into the cold sea, soaking up the indescribable beauties of the Cliffs of Moher, having a pint at the Temple Bar in Dublin, and loving on the Connemara ponies at the Kylemore Abbey.

The festival began during our second week. I chose to be a part of the Visual Arts Invigilation Program (VAIP). I served as an invigilator for Australian artist Patricia Piccinini's We Travel Together exhibition at the main Festival Gallery. Engaging with over 13,000 visitors, I found myself at the intersection of art and audience, sharing the fascinating insights I had gained about the artworks. The interactions I had with visitors were so fulfilling; seeing their curiosity and excitement mirrored my own and reaffirmed my passion for the arts. Ensuring that each visitor had an enjoyable experience was a responsibility I enjoyed, and I believe it has honed my skills in public engagement and hospitality.

The atmosphere in Galway is incredibly welcoming and vibrant, with its lively streets filled with young, artistic individuals, performers, and attractions. The Irish are natural conversationalists, eager to talk about anything and everything. It’s common to sit next to a stranger at a bus stop and have them chat with you as if they’ve known you forever.

One particularly memorable conversation I had was with Irish artist Yvonne McGuinness. Her short film What’s Left Us Then—a thought-provoking, often humorous reflection on modern Ireland through the lens of rural concrete structures—was on display at the Printworks Gallery during the festival. While working an invigilator shift, I introduced myself to McGuinness, and we ended up talking for ages about her creative process, past works, and even my experiences with art, college, and Ireland. I jokingly mentioned that being in Ireland made me feel like a side character in an episode of Peaky Blinders, the British crime drama starring Irish actor Cillian Murphy. She laughed and shared that her family loves the show. Later, I looked her up out of curiosity, only to discover, to my shock and embarrassment, that Yvonne McGuinness has been married to Cillian Murphy since 2004. In what world does that happen? Only in Ireland, I guess!

Another highlight of my trip was learning about the origins of the Claddagh ring. During the first week, all of the girls bought Claddagh rings together, which is a big sign of friendship in Irish culture. The rings originated in the fishing village of Claddagh near Galway Bay. The ring's design features three distinctive elements: a heart, which symbolizes love; a crown, which represents loyalty; and two hands, which signify friendship. The rings can serve the purpose of a friendship ring or a symbol of true love or loyalty. The Claddagh ring can be worn in many different ways to denote the wearer's relationship status. When the ring is worn with the heart and crown facing outwards or towards you, it indicates that your heart is open for a new lover. The opposite direction, heart and crown facing inwards or away from you, means that you are in a relationship. I bought a special Claddagh ring that has my birthstone as the heart.

Amidst the excitement of being in a country with so many big adventures, it can be easy to overlook the smaller, everyday moments. Yet, some of my favorite memories were simply spending time with my group. We fully embraced Irish sports culture, cheering on Galway in the Gaelic football finals and gathering at The King’s Head pub to watch hurling matches. We followed our favorite local buskers, singing along with them in M. Fitzgerald’s. We also grew closer by playing We’re Not Really Strangers, a game that let us bond on a deeper level.

There were simple, cherished moments too—relaxing by the Spanish Arch with James, enjoying café dates and guitar sing-alongs with Ellie and Ella, and laughing harder than ever with Juliana and her improv routines. We indulged in movie marathons, watched all the Disney Descendants films thanks to Allison’s insistence, and celebrated Sara’s 21st birthday in style. My solo travels to Dublin with Kat, sharing favorite musicals with Shelby, and casual family dinners with everyone formed the heart of my trip. Those everyday moments made this experience unforgettable.

This opportunity to study abroad was truly transformative, and I wouldn’t trade it for anything. Ireland has left a lasting impact—the warmth of its people, the richness of its history, and the beauty of its landscapes have all resonated deeply with me. But most importantly, this journey has given me a newfound connection to my silly Irish middle name, which now carries even more significance. Ireland will forever hold a special place in my heart.